Harps have a lot of strings, which means that sooner or later you're going to be faced with replacing a broken one. Here you can find everything from string charts to printable order forms to videos on tying the harper's knot. If you have any questions or if you'd like to order strings and prefer to do so over the phone, give us a call!
All of our string charts are available as PDF downloads. The model and serial number of your instrument can be found on a label inside the lower sound hole.
|Nylon Strung Harps
|Ravenna 26, Allegro 26 & FH26||Crescendo 32 & FH32|
|FH26 Double-Strung||FH36H, FH36S & FH36B|
|Ravenna 34||FH36 (before 1991)|
|Crescendo 34 & FH34|
|Gut Strung Harps|
|Ravenna 26, Allegro 26 & FH26||Crescendo 34 & FH34|
|Ravenna 34||Boulevard 34|
|FH36H, FH36B & FH36S|
We sell strings individually and also in full sets. Even if you don't plan on restringing your harp, ordering a full string set can be a great way to make sure you have a backup on hand in case a string breaks. Don't be alarmed if the set comes with fewer strings than you have on your harp. Since the nylon monofilament strings are 52½" long and some of the higher notes are a lot shorter than that, one length of nylon can be used to string two or three notes. To keep your costs down, we have included only the amount of material you actually need to restring the harp.
Our lever gut string sets use gut in the middle range, but keep some nylon strings at the very top and some wound strings at the bottom. If you are restringing your entire harp, or want to have a full set of spare strings in case any break, you'll want the complete gut string set. If you are converting your harp from nylon to gut and don't want to change all your strings, we also offer a gut conversion set, which includes only the gut strings.
We sell two different types of gut strings - lever gut and pedal gut. Lever gut is lower tension and can be used on all of our harps except the Boulevard. Pedal gut is higher tension and should only be used on the Boulevard. Using pedal gut on any of our other harp models will void your warranty and may damage the harp.
More information on the difference in sound between gut and nylon is available here.
The prices below are for string sets and individual strings. Our nylon monofilament is also available in bulk; contact us for details. For current shipping and handling rates, see our Shipping Info page.
|Nylon Monofilament in red, blue or clear|
|.025", .028", .032", .036", .040", .045", .050", .055"||$2.25|
|.026" red, .028", .029", .030", .031" blue||$10.50|
|.032", .033", .035" red, .037", .038", .039", .041" blue||$14.50|
|.045", .047", .049" red, .051", .055", .060"||$21.50|
|Bow Brand "Burgundy" Pedal Gut (for Boulevard only)|
|String #6-10 (Bow Brand #10-14, 2nd octave)||$6.50|
|String #11-17 (Bow Brand #15-21, 3rd octave)||$8.50|
|String #18-24 (Bow Brand #22-28, 4th octave)||$13.00|
|String #25-26 (Bow Brand #29-30, 5th octave)||$20.00|
|Wound Strings (specific to Dusty Strings harps)
|Phosphor bronze core||$10.50|
|Complete Nylon String Sets|
|Ravenna 26, Allegro 26 or FH26||$65.00|
|FH26 Double-Strung (one side)||$60.00|
|Ravenna 34, Crescendo 34 or FH34||$155.00|
|FH36B, FH36H or FH36S||$134.00|
|Crescendo 32 or FH32||$111.00|
|FH36 (before 1992)||$131.00|
|Complete Lever Gut String Sets|
|FH26, Allegro 26 or Ravenna 26||$282.00|
|FH34, Crescendo 34 or Ravenna 34||$401.00|
|FH36S, FH36H or FH36B||$380.00|
|Lever Gut Conversion Sets|
|FH26, Allegro 26 or Ravenna 26 (replaces strings #5-20)||$240.00|
|FH34, Crescendo 34 or Ravenna 34 (replaces strings #6-23)||$283.00|
|FH36S, FH36H or FH36B (replaces strings #8-25)||$283.00|
|Complete Pedal Gut String Set|
|Boulevard Classic 34||$323.00|
A few of our dealers stock our strings, but for most people it's easiest to order strings directly from us. You can order them online, you can print an order form and fax or mail it to us (see instructions on the form), or you can call us and place your order over the phone. You'll need to know your harp model, which is written on a label inside the lower sound hole of the instrument, as well as the string number, counting from the top.
Note: We changed the design of our 36-string harps around 1992, so if you have an older harp that says "FH36" on the label, be sure you order strings for it, not for the FH36B, FH36H or FH36S. If you are unsure what model you have, we can look up the serial number, which is also found on the label inside the soundhole.
If you'd like to download and print an order form, see the links below.
See our Shipping Info page for current shipping and handling rates.
You can use any nylon monofilament strings on your harp, provided they are the diameter specified on your string chart. However we make our own custom wound strings for each model of harp, and for this reason we highly recommend purchasing wound string replacements that are made by us. We take great care in our stringwinding and each string is designed for a particular note on a particular harp model. This means that the wrap ends in a very specific place for that length of string and the materials have been designed to give what we feel is the best combination of sound and performance. We also measure and maintain tight tolerances on the diameter of each string, which is what ensures that the lever will fit the string and sound good when it's engaged. You can read more about our string making and design process here.
Note: If you do have someone else design a string set for your Dusty harp, you must be sure that you don't put more tension on the harp than the standard set does. Doing so could cause serious damage to your instrument and void your warranty.
The prospect of replacing your first broken string can be daunting, but with a little bit of practice and the right instructions, it's pretty straightforward. There is a string chart mounted inside your harp's soundbox (or you can download one from this page) and our PDF guide to Replacing Harp Strings has detailed instructions and diagrams for each different type of string. Please contact us before deviating from the string chart. And remember not to remove all the strings at once, as your harp is primarily held together by string tension!
Replacing nylon monofilament and gut strings requires a special knot known as the harper's knot. If you're struggling to learn it from the diagrams in the guide, the videos below might be helpful.
When to replace strings:
There is no rule about how often to replace your strings. The easy-to-identify situations are when a string breaks, a wound string begins to unwrap, or a wound string has become stretched out enough that the wrapped section passes over the bridge pin. The more subjective situations are when a string sounds dull to you or you notice an overall loss of tone in your harp. Changing the strings will usually brighten it back up. Ultimately, however, you should do whatever feels right to you. If the harp sounds fine to your ear, there's no reason to change the strings unless they break!